The Land of the Suicide Teddy Bears

 

Above are different Evil Eye Talismans.  If it breaks, it is proof that it warded off the "evil eye", the bad wishes or the curse that was thrust upon you.

To keep evil spirts from occupying a house under, Albanians will hang a stuffed animal near the door or window so that the evil spirits will think the house is occupied.

In Albania, to ward off the “evil eye”, people hang teddy bears or other assorted stuffed animals as well as garlands of garlic from their roof tops.  So as you ride down the road, you will see all sorts of suicidal toy images.  In Durres, I saw a HUGE teddy bear hanging by the neck. It was the huge bear you win at a carnival and can’t figure out where to put it when you get home.  If that happens here, they just hang it by the neck to keep the bad spirits out. This could be a child’s worst nightmare!

Garlands of Garlic are also used to ward off evil.

It's not just teddy bears, they hang assorted stuffed animals.  Here is a friendly chipmunk post mortem :)

 

So how are things in the Peace Corps Pre-Service Training you ask? They are structured; Very Structured. In high school I was able to skip a day occasionally.  In college I could skip an entire course and take the final exam.  With my company,  I was the boss and could work 10-4 if I felt like it.  But here?  If I do not show up for class, I would have 5 Peace Corps staff on my doorstep, genuinely concerned and ready to take me to the hospital!  I kid you not! I can imagine the chaos I might cause if I just slept in one day and asked a friend to take notes for me.  It might go like this:

“Rhona, where are you?” says the Peace Corps staff (PCS).

Rhona replies, “I am still in bed.  I am tired today and want to watch a movie. I’m just chillin’.  My friend is taking notes for me, don’t worry, it’s all good. I’ll be in tomorrow.”

What would happen?  I am faced with the unknown. I am in a foreign country and at the mercy of others.  It’s an odd position for me to be in after years of independence.  What would they do?  Release me into the wilderness of Albania to fend for myself? Anyway.... I have never missed a day of class, because I only have me to look out for now, and that shouldn’t be so hard.  I can do this, Rhona!  Obey the rules.  Obey the rules. Don't miss class and be on time!

Sometimes, instead of hanging a stuffed animal, they might use a scarecrow on top of their roof to make it appear occupied so the evil spirits stay out.

 

If someone comes in five minutes late, the class is lectured for 15 more minutes about the importance of being punctual.  This is another tough area for me.  I was married to a punctual military man for many years and he was never able to change me into a timely person.  I was always doing 10 things at once.   I am keeping good time here, and I’m not sure why. Maybe because all I have to worry about is myself now.  I don’t have 4 kids, a husband, 2 dogs, dinner, dishes, laundry, a dirty house, doctor appointments, swim meets and soccer games to get to.  JUST…GET…RHONA…TO…CLASS…ON…TIME…AND…NOTHING…ELSE!!!

A teddy bear above and a doll below keep watch over the house and keep the spirits at bay.

I miss having adult companionship; Friends my age to go out and share a drink and laugh. I miss my friends in Uganda.  I miss my friends in Hawaii.  I miss my friends in Texas.  I miss my 4 children like never before. I am keeping myself together so well right now because I am busy. I take long walks, I study hard, and I read alot,. Sometimes I dont keep it together.  Then I cry.

Both of these pictures are taken near my house in Thane during my walk to the river.

 

They keep us very busy. I have class everyday all day on weekdays, and Saturday mornings.  Then I do hours of homework and studying and preparing for the next day.  I am learning Albanian (Shqip) very fast.  I have heard that this 10 week course is equivalent to a one year college course.  I can believe it.  We move very fast, and the younger PCV surrounding me are so much sharper and quicker to learn than me.  I have to put in 5 hours to their 1 hour of study time just to keep up.

This sign says "The kids are ready for school, and school is ready for the kids".

 I interacted with these children in a school in Durres.  They practiced their English and I practiced by Shqip (Albanian).

When I am not learning the language, I am learning about other issues in Albania:  Politics, Safety and Security issues, Health habits concerning food and water, Sexual assaults, STDs and HIV, Cultural issues, Gender issues, and Community and Organizational development.  We visit other NGOs, learn to write grants and proposals, met the Mayor of Elbasan, and met the US Ambassador. The list is endless, and actually very interesting and necessary.  I am definitely learning a lot by being here and it is enriching my life. 

This cart is passing me as I am waiting for the bus to Elbasan.  I am right in front of my house.

There is snow on those mountains! 

I look forward to the end of Training and the new beginning it will bring to my independence at my new site.  In one week we all find out where we will be living for the next two years of our lives….stay tuned!  Update:  My site is Kucove.  Small city in a government office.